Fashion as Resistance and Identity: How Black Dandyism Defined Fashion’s Biggest Night

The biggest night in fashion arrived this year with the powerful theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” celebrating the intersection of style, strength, and resistance. From the rhythmic click of heels to the constant flash of cameras, the energy was electric. But this wasn’t just any red carpet—it was a tribute to Black culture, where fashion and identity were seamlessly woven together. Every stitch, fabric, and silhouette told a story, paying homage to a legacy of resilience and creativity. This year’s gala wasn’t just a showcase of style—it was a bold statement of pride, power, and purpose.

Via WWD

What is Black Dandyism?

Dandyism—which emerged in the 18th century—was rooted in style and rebellion against societal norms. But Black dandyism evolved into something even deeper. It became a symbol of resilience, identity, and strength. Gaining prominence during the Harlem Renaissance—a golden era for Black culture, music, fashion, and art in Harlem, New York—Black dandyism redefined how style could challenge stereotypes. Tailored suits, bold fabrics, and flamboyant accessories became tools of self-expression and resistance. It was elegance with purpose, disrupting traditional fashion standards and reshaping ideas of masculinity and Black identity through clothing.

Via Vogue, André Leon Talley

Some notable figures who were prominent in the Black dandyism fashion scene was Dapper Dan who played a major role in fashion, especially his roots in Harlem. Merging hip hop and fashion to reinventing designer logos and his own designs were revolutionary. It gave the black community accessible fashion to engage with luxury fashion that spoke to both street culture and high society. 

Dapper’s Dan influence is a reminder that one’s style isn't just just the clothes you wear but it can show your culture, identity, where you’ve been and the power that you hold in shaping the world around you. 

In today’s world, Black dandyism has shifted inspiring modern fashion icons Pharell Williams and A$Ap Rocky. Both using inspiration from the past such as sharp tailored suits that highlight black dandyism and putting their own unique twists in their wardrobe.

Vogue’s Met Gala issue for this year played a significant role. On the cover were the four Black male co-chairs of the Met Gala—Pharrell Williams, Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, and A$AP Rocky.

Met Gala 2025: Black Dandyism Takes Center Stage

TThe zoot suit, a bold fashion statement from the 1920s, served as a key inspiration for Dapper Dan’s Met Gala look. In an Instagram post, he shared, “My theme is LOGO MANIA. A movement in fashion that I’m considered the father of. (It has lasted too long to be considered a trend).”

He went on to write, “The zoot suit is a key factor in the development of the Dandy in the Black and Brown communities,”highlighting its cultural and historical significance.

Dan’s ensemble stood out on the red carpet, introducing what may become his signature house logo: a heart-shaped crest layered over a pair of interlocking “D” initials. “The zoot suit symbolizes the freedom that we have associated with the dandy,” he explained.

His look also featured the Sankofa symbol—both in subtle print and as a striking emblem on the back of his jacket, depicted as a bird looking backward. Speaking to Vanity Fair, Dan elaborated: “The symbol means ‘Go back to get.’ Go back and get so we can go forward. If we all go back first, we can come together.”

All-white custom three-piece Louis Vuitton suit, featuring a blazer hugged at the waist and wide-leg trousers. The look for night was kept simple and chic. Along with a Bulgari Serpenti brooch on the back.

Zendaya’s zoot suit was a powerful homage to the rock and roll history of the zoot suit – a staple look of Black dandyism. The suit honored pioneering black women who used the suit to embody strength and confidence during the 1970s and 1980s.

Rihanna’s appearance at the 2025 Met Gala was nothing short of iconic—not only did she captivate with a look that flawlessly embodied the spirit of Black dandyism, but she also surprised the world with the announcement of her pregnancy.

She paid homage to the roots of Black dandyism with a custom Marc Jacobs ensemble: a cropped tailored suit jacket, a sleek skirt with an unexpected twist at the back, and a bold polka dot ascot that tied the look together with classic flair.

Diana Ross made an incredible comeback after 22 years since she attended the Met Gala. She wanted a specific tailored design that honored her family legacy. Her 18-foot train was a heartfelt tribute towards her family. The train was embroidered with her children’s names Rhonda, Tracee, Chudney, Ross, and Evan—and her eight grandchildren’s—Raif, Callaway, Everlee, Leif, Indigo, Jagger, Bronx, and Ziggy.

Lionel Nichols, a self-taught tailor from Flatbush, Brooklyn who also had work in putting together Diana’s iconic look for the night.

“A forever family gown,” Ross mentions to Vogue.

Lupita Nyong’o shared with Harper’s Bazaar, “This year’s Met Gala theme captures how the Black men of America have insisted on their dignity through dressing with more value than this country has afforded them. Dressing as a radical, defiant, and self-preserving act is something that I learned from my African roots as well as from observing African America through popular culture.”

Her stylist, Micaela Erlanger, added that Nyong’o’s wide-brimmed hat was inspired by both jazz and street culture.

“The sharply tailored suit honors the precision and refinement of classic menswear, while the sweeping cape adds a layer of theatricality—echoing the flair and individuality of the Black dandy tradition,” Bazaar noted.

Harpers Bazaar

The 2025 Met Gala delivered a powerful statement in honoring and representing the Black community. Designers like Dapper Dan brought their unique innovation to the carpet while paying tribute to their roots and cultural legacy.

This event is far more than a glamorous night on the fashion calendar—it’s a platform where culture, creativity, and boundary-pushing artistry converge to amplify voices that have long shaped the industry.

Black culture has been a driving force in fashion, influencing its evolution through generations. From trailblazers like Virgil Abloh and André Leon Talley to Pharrell Williams now leading at Louis Vuitton, Black representation in fashion continues to grow and redefine the landscape.

This year’s theme, centered on Black dandyism, celebrated how Black identity, history, and self-expression remain foundational in shaping the future of fashion.